Timing Adjustment Screw

[Prowl]

Been screwing around with the timing adjustment screw on my bike cause the Bog is shitting me to tears :cry:

This morning I screwed it almost all the way in and it's worse! Gonna screw it out a tad during lunch.

Anyone know what difference it makes going in or out?

My bike is just about perfect for me, if I can get rid of this Bog I'll be set.

[Prowl]

Almost thinking of getting one of these, Stealth FCR AP2 (http://stealthracingtech.com/catalog.htm)

Thoughts anyone?

[BoneGraft]

Your link doesn't work for me.

Have you looked through this thread mate? Has to do with FCR bog...

http://www.vsmr.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5191

[Prowl]

Link fixed!

I had my Bike jetted at Mainjet in Thomo, runs great but I hate this freaking BOG!

It has the thick O-Ring as per JD's advice, also had the BK mod done but wasn't impressed so got rid of the screw.

If the rev's are up it's great but if I give it a nice whack of throttle down low it bogs :(

[Wobbly]

Which screw are you talking about? the one that screws in to the AP linkage that has the follower arm thing that falls behind it? I take it you are running the o-ring mod to hold the two together?

[Prowl]

Which screw are you talking about? the one that screws in to the AP linkage that has the follower arm thing that falls behind it? I take it you are running the o-ring mod to hold the two together?

Yep that screw where the O-Ring goes on, was lookign at doing the Wire Mod yonks ago but never got round to it, maybe that's an easier way out, wire the arms together so there's no slack when it pulls?

[Wobbly]

I lockwired mine on the husky - seems to have made things better, but the husky motor is all top end so not a dramatic difference. But it did remove the pause-and-wait bog that it had from medium rpm ranges when cracking the throttle. It's kind of hard to diagnose bog from a lean condition vs bog from a rich condition, so it's just a matter of trial and error unfortunately...

http://vsmr.net/albums/bitsnbobs/DSC02532.sized.jpg

[Prowl]

Well I'll be!!! Had a fiddle during lunch (as one does ;) ) and attempted the wire mod with a paperclip!

As sad as that sounds it was an instant difference OMG! In second it lifts effortlessly with no clutch what so ever it just rips!! :roost: No BOG just a tincy wincy hint of lag which I reckon I can finally adjust with the AP Screw.

Does anyone know what this means?

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee289/peponline/Gap.jpg

I backed mine out and just wound it in one thread.

P.S I will remove the paperclip on my way home after a quick trip to Bunnings that's the only "wire" I could find at work :D

[Wobbly]

The note on the photo just means that he's adjusted the screw to the point that there is no gap between the linkage and the follower...

[Prowl]

The note on the photo just means that he's adjusted the screw to the point that there is no gap between the linkage and the follower...

So he applied the wire then just kept screwing in to ensure no gap yeh?

Just cause he mentioned something about WOT then adjusting the AP screw in the gap? When I do that the arm will eventually follow and close the gap anyway without the wire.

[Wobbly]

The wire should just force the follow, rather than letting it dawdle forward on spring tension - adjustment should be done separately. The AP is just a simple spring diaphragm which is actuated by a spring - the follower simply limits its travel and pushes it back when the throttle is closed to re-fill the AP chamber under vacuum. The adjustment screw simply controls how far up the rod is pulled relative to the throttle, and thus how much juice is in the chamber (and consequently how long the AP shot is).

When you tie the follower to the throttle linkage you end up controlling the speed of the squirt by the speed of the throttle opening, which only makes a difference when that speed is greater than the linear return speed of the spring. But the adjustment available via the screw still controls how much the AP chamber is filled by and the capacity of the squirt, except that a throttle opened faster than the follower normally returns at will cause the squirt to be higher velocity rather than affecting the duration.

So if you're a bit confused now as to all the adjustments and what specific affect they'll have, then that's why its generally a trial and error matter to dial it in. Just change one factor at a time :)

[Prowl]

Thanks mate! Made perfect sense :P

Have got the wire fitted and have left the AP screw at 1 thread in and I'm stocked!! This is how my bike should run :twisted:

I seriously cant believe how much a difference a little piece of wire has made, it's squirting just as hard as a seasoned vet at a Porno Carnavle :D

Ladies and Gentlemen, The BOG has been Flushed!

Cheers.

[Wobbly]

:lol2: