View Full Version : The Great Husky Rebuild
HyperGez
18-06-2008, 10:45 AM
As most of you know, my husky went boom! at Broady, so it's rebuild time. I have finally stripped the bike down and removed the engine, ready to drop it off to Justin on Saturday so he can weave his magic.
What he'll find is anyone's guess so i'll just wait and see what the damage is. While he's at the engine, I have the opportunity to upgrade a few things on the bike, i'll post as it all happens.
Here's a few pic's of where i'm at.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/Silver12r/16062008.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/Silver12r/18062008001.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/Silver12r/18062008.jpg
my condolencies, i have been in ths situation. hope it goes well.
Wobbly
18-06-2008, 02:15 PM
So you'll obviously need a big bore and cams :D
Flash
18-06-2008, 02:59 PM
At least the rod didn't escape!
How did it let go just a seize or did it start to rattle?
dr6502007
18-06-2008, 05:26 PM
Not being a smart arse but thats why I ride a DR650 in hope I dont have any expensive rebuilds. It is a daily ride as well which makes it important to be reliable. :)
Just wish it was lighter, faster, handled better, looked better and stopped better ..... :lol: :lol:
SMC690
18-06-2008, 06:32 PM
So you'll obviously need a big bore and cams :D
Yeah, that's what I said including a stroker kit. :)
Not being a smart arse but thats why I ride a DR650 in hope I dont have any expensive rebuilds.
The only thing that would stop a DR650 donk is a 50 calibre anti-materiel sniper rifle. ;)
albonator316
18-06-2008, 06:47 PM
hopefully not too many $$$$ dollars have to be thrown at it!
I think it just seized flash, But Gerry could fill you in better.
Waiting for the update.
playwme
18-06-2008, 07:27 PM
Not being a smart arse but thats why I ride a DR650 in hope I dont have any expensive rebuilds. It is a daily ride as well which makes it important to be reliable. :)
Just wish it was lighter, faster, handled better, looked better and stopped better ..... :lol: :lol:
Ah well, 1 out of 6 aint bad. :P
Cool,, i'm sure it will be running in no time!
HyperGez
20-06-2008, 08:25 PM
nmilne, Thats where I might be heading! :twisted:
This sort of thing can happen, no matter what bike your on. If I had a DR I would have killed it along time ago.
Here's how it happened.
The start of the 2nd lap of 2nd session, exiting turn 1 and the bike cut out for a second. First thought was fuel so I backed off the throttle and reached down to the fuel tap to see if it was on, it was. Power back on and all seemed fine down the back straight thru to sixth, braked and entered turn 2, this where it all got interesting. On the exit of turn 2, the bike began to shudder violently but would again clear and accept the throttle. I knew something was wrong at this stage so I closed the throttle, raised my arm and rolled thru the next two turns and onto the small straight that leads to the track exit. As I got onto the exit lane the rear locked and I immediately pulled the clutch in and rolled into the pit area. I raised the bike onto my stand and pushed the starter, it fired up, ran for a few seconds and then stalled. I did this once more before shutting it down and took some time to remove my gear to be able to look into it better. I went back to the bike and checked fuel, spark and everything else I could think of, all was ok. I then thumb'd the starter, nothing, just the clicking relay. By then the session was over and everyone pulled into the pits. Shane said to try the kickstarter (Totally forgot I had one :roll: ) It would not move, thats when the peny droped. SEIZED! :x Took the plug out, still no good. Gear lever goes in and out of gear and the clutch still releases the countershaft when in gear, so hopefully all good there too. I removed the cam cover but it all looked ok in there also.
What ever it needs, it will get, and more. So stay tuned.
prid1279
20-06-2008, 10:37 PM
Good luck. I bet you find it nerve racking firing it up that first time after your rebuild. I did.
dr6502007
21-06-2008, 12:02 AM
So you'll obviously need a big bore and cams :D
Yeah, that's what I said including a stroker kit. :)
Not being a smart arse but thats why I ride a DR650 in hope I dont have any expensive rebuilds.
The only thing that would stop a DR650 donk is a 50 calibre anti-materiel sniper rifle. ;)
Have ya got one... can we try it :D
SMC690
21-06-2008, 12:07 AM
Have ya got one... can we try it :D
Between Bedo & I we can organise something.
You offering the donor motor?
Bring a big bucket too to take all the pieces home in. :P
dr6502007
21-06-2008, 12:12 AM
...... If I had a DR I would have killed it along time ago.
What ever it needs, it will get, and more. So stay tuned.
I wasnt tring to be smart G-Man, its a cunt when stuff like that happens. I really hope you get it going better than ever and on the positive side its probably a good opportunity to work it a little while ya at it. Look forward to seeing it back flying sooner than later :up:
Reminds me of a DT250 I had years ago I stupidly forgot to put 2 stoke oil in it and the bloody thing seized.... as it would. I pushed it 500 meters or so to a mates place and after it cooled down it started again and I used it for another year or so. :o Cant imagine what condition the internals would have looked like....
Good luck with it mate
dr6502007
21-06-2008, 12:15 AM
Have ya got one... can we try it :D
Between Bedo & I we can organise something.
You offering the donor motor?
Bring a big bucket too to take all the pieces home in. :P
Ohhh ummm... :shock:
Can we wait till Im finished with it :lol:
SMC690
21-06-2008, 12:18 AM
Reminds me of a DT250 I had years ago I stupidly forgot to put 2 stoke oil in it and the bloody thing seized.... as it would. I pushed it 500 meters or so to a mates place and after it cooled down it started again and I used it for another year or so. :o Cant imagine what condition the internals would have looked like....
Obviously a tad better than this:
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/htmlpics/backwards%20piston.jpg
dr6502007
21-06-2008, 12:22 AM
That looks like it was chizzled out of the barrell :shock:
What was it out of..
SMC690
21-06-2008, 12:25 AM
Google images. :P
Here's the reference, a NZ PC site of all things!: http://pressf1.pcworld.co.nz/showthread.php?t=87621&page=2
Wobbly
21-06-2008, 06:26 PM
Amateurs.
http://vsmr.net/albums/krblowup/KR_engine_after_sieze_piston1.jpg
http://vsmr.net/albums/krblowup/KR_engine_after_sieze.jpg
http://vsmr.net/albums/krblowup/KR_engine_after_sieze_balancer.jpg
http://vsmr.net/albums/krblowup/KR_engine_after_sieze_crank.jpg
http://vsmr.net/albums/krblowup/KR_engine_after_sieze_loose_case.jpg
Flash
21-06-2008, 06:41 PM
i've got a better piston than that! But the rod wins over all!
HyperGez
21-06-2008, 07:52 PM
dr6502007, all's cool dude, I had a DR and it gave me all kinds of electrical probs till I gave up and traded it in for a RGV.
Engine is at the workshop, I'll have more news on what's happened on Monday when he tears it down.
I was asked a few questions about the bike and the guess is a combo of things added to this failure,
1- It could have more kay's on it than the odo shows.
2- Wrong oil spec for track work/wrong gearing leading me to over rev the engine.
Guess no 2 is what we think the internals will show.
He also inspected the exhaust ports and said they should be white and powdery after a track day but they're black.
Was told we should be gearing our bikes to allow us to short shift and use the mid range not the top end. I was also advised to buy an aftermarket dash which shows rpm/coolant temp/lap times and also use those temp stickers that you attach to the side of the head which change colour to indicate engine temp.
For now all I can do is clean things and do lots of overtime to pay for it all :coffee: .
Husky will live again :up:
SMC690
22-06-2008, 04:13 PM
Neil, that looks very KR1Sish?
Wobbly
22-06-2008, 04:39 PM
In all respects, yes :lol2:
HyperGez
01-07-2008, 12:46 AM
Engine is stripped, no pics as yet.
Inside of engine cases is covered with a gritty sludge, very abrasive like toothpaste. Bike has either been drowned, oil has very rarely been changed by the previous owner or the air filter was neglected, or all of the above. Either way, it was only a matter of time before it went boom. All this grit was being spread around the engine with every new oil change I did. Oil pump, crank bearings (Crank is ok) main bearing and rod and piston are all cactus as a result of this. Cylinder just needs a hone. Everything else is good. Looking at roughly $1000 - $1200 for parts, add labour to that. Could have been alot worse.
Wobbly
01-07-2008, 08:33 AM
No, if you look closely you'll notice the piston isn't good either and obviously needs a (big) bore and a much larger piston :lol2:
HyperGez
01-07-2008, 04:25 PM
:idea: I'll have closer look, you might be right. :up:
dr6502007
01-07-2008, 05:30 PM
Cheers G-man, good luck with it. Are there some things you can do yourself?
I had a ford escort years ago and it blew a nice big hole in the block but I didnt let it give up, I still got another 10 or so ks out of it (at around 5kph) .. to get it to Darabin Road wreckers where I got another 1300cc 4 cyclinder engine for 150 buck and fitted it the next day and drove it home... Oh they were the days :lol:
prid1279
01-07-2008, 08:42 PM
G-man, like you said the news could have been a lot worse. I bet you never slip with your maintenance after seeing what someone else's laziness has done.
Neil, I noticed the Metrinch sockets in your crank shot. Are they yours? How long have you had them? Would you buy them again if you ever wore them out? Happy with their performance?
Flash
01-07-2008, 09:53 PM
I had a set Metrinch spanners and I don't like them too much I went with Flank drive Snap on instead
Wobbly
01-07-2008, 11:53 PM
I've got both metrinch spanners and deep drive sockets.
I find the metrinch spanners good for their intended purpose, and they are relatively thin walled which means that they can get into some awkward spots which has proven to be very useful. However, they can be a little dangerous, as a size above often feels like it fits until you put some pressure on it and it rounds off the bolt head. Which is what they're not supposed to do of course. So yes, I'd recommend them, but wouldn't use them as my only set of spanners. I generally use a set of regular drop forged spanners as my primary set.
The sockets are ok, and they're my only set of deep drive sockets, which is what they get used for primarily. Again, I have a general set of half inch drive regular sockets which I most usually use, and use the deep drive ones for specific tasks.
prid1279
02-07-2008, 01:38 PM
I have a 3/8 spanner/socket set that mum bought me for my 17th birthday. I just wanted to see what you thought of them, I have heard heaps of people bag them out.
I never use the spanners anymore. Too much movement, especially a pain in the arse in tight spots.
The sockets I love. I generally try the smaller size first. They have got me out of heaps of ticklish situations and over the last fifteen years have copped an absolute flogging. They were my everyday set until I recently bought a 1/4" socket set specifically for bike use.
As for spanners I use the gearwrench type these days. The best fucking thing ever invented.
Sorry for hijacking the thread.
Wobbly
02-07-2008, 02:37 PM
Yeah, I bought some craftsman ratcheted spanners when I was in the states last year and they're awesomely awesome :)
prid1279
02-07-2008, 02:44 PM
I think about how good my ratchet spanners are everytime that I use them. Reminds me of all the times in the past that I have whinged when undoing a hard to reach bolt has taken so long.
mattlinda1
02-07-2008, 06:35 PM
Engine is stripped, no pics as yet.
Inside of engine cases is covered with a gritty sludge, very abrasive like toothpaste. Bike has either been drowned, oil has very rarely been changed by the previous owner or the air filter was neglected, or all of the above. Either way, it was only a matter of time before it went boom. All this grit was being spread around the engine with every new oil change I did. Oil pump, crank bearings (Crank is ok) main bearing and rod and piston are all cactus as a result of this. Cylinder just needs a hone. Everything else is good. Looking at roughly $1000 - $1200 for parts, add labour to that. Could have been alot worse. as the last owner of this bike the air filter was cleaned every ride oil changed every 200km speedo was never disconected if you changed oil more often you should have seen a gritty sludge or oil was discoloured if it was drowned
HyperGez
04-07-2008, 11:13 AM
Matt, I'm not having a dig at you.
I'm going off what we've seen inside the engine. You have kept the bike well, but there is no other way we can see that this grit could have contaminated the engine (It's pretty thick)
Edit.
don't get me started on husky dealers, they are the reason i would never buy one again
smrdog
04-07-2008, 11:48 AM
Wrong oil spec for track work/wrong gearing leading me to over rev the engine.
Thats REALLY interesting - what oil spec was the suggestion? Hope I'm putting the right suff in, costs enough...
Flash
04-07-2008, 12:01 PM
It could be clutch sludge your looking at too! I found on my 450 there was a lot of it and I changed the oil no more than 100km's and it got a filter ever second change!
HyperGez
04-07-2008, 12:27 PM
Motul 300V was recomended.
Ya, did Mattlinda replace a clutch or somthing recently. I put a new starter clutch in my 610 and a day later the oil was full of grit. I changed the oil 4 times in 4 days and its been clean ever since.
HyperGez
18-07-2008, 08:43 PM
Quick update.
Rebuild is comming along great. Probably have the engine back in a few weeks from now.
I've upgraded the front brake to a radial mastercylinder with two finger pazzo lever off a 07 GSXR1000 :shock: Lever is like a rock! Might be a little overkill but I've always liked a firm lever.
Hopefully see you all out there sooner rather than later.
prid1279
18-07-2008, 08:58 PM
Good to hear it is coming along and that you haven't lost your enthusiasm.
I think you might find the gsxr master too big to work properly with a single caliper.
HyperGez
18-07-2008, 09:19 PM
I'm probably more keen and into it now than I've ever been.
Driving thru Enfield, I look down all the tracks spearing off into the bush, thinking how great it will be when I'm back in action. I'm really looking forward to riding the bike with all the mods that are being done to it.
Will keep updating this thread and post pics when I have some.
HyperGez
18-07-2008, 09:32 PM
I think you might find the gsxr master too big to work properly with a single caliper.
Yeah, was told that.
I chose a larger master to have less effort needed in squeezing the lever. Standard on the husky is a brembo but cannot get it to firm up, it is a TE not a SM so that might explain why. It's very firm now with the gixer master but seems to feel ok as it does have some softness on initially squeezing the lever, but it might very well be too sensitive. I'll see how it works when it's rideable. Thanks for the feedback mate. :up:
Wobbly
21-07-2008, 10:57 PM
Having a bigger mc will mean that its harder to pull, not easier/more power. You think that having a bigger piston/stroke means pumping more fluid for given lever travel so that it would equate to bigger stopping power. Unfortunately, that's the wrong way of looking at it. What it actually means is that for a given amount of fluid that's required to be pushed to allow a certain amount of braking, you have less lever travel which means less mechanical leverage, which means requiring more effort at the lever.
I tried fitting a 16mm non-radial caliper on a nissin 2 piston brake and it was a disaster.
smrdog
22-07-2008, 11:04 AM
Hey G-Man, I had my first ever dirt bike ride on the weekend, out through Enfield SF on a DR-Z400 - had a bloody ball. Great playground you have in your back yard.
I was recomended the the 300V for track work so glad that was what you had recomended to you as well. Good to hear its all coming along well.
HyperGez
22-07-2008, 11:40 AM
nmilne, never thought of it that way. I've always thought that a larger mc will give more power thus needing less effort at the lever. Thanks for the advice mate, will take it on board.
smrdog, Moving out there was the best thing I've ever done, it's dirtbike paradise! And what tops it off is that the pub is in the middle of it all!
I'll have to get out there with ya when my bike's back in action. I'll post a ride up when it all happens.
Usally with Hydralics Its restrict the size increase the pressure. Brakes clutches, Also restrict the surface area increase the clamping pressure..
I dunno, I could be talken brail backward swahelie as well.
just my 2 cents worth with a dash of southern comfort...
HyperGez
26-07-2008, 08:40 PM
Ahhhhhhh, Southern Comfort. Truth syrum, lol!!!!!!
I've found that burbon works too. :lol: :drinkers:
HyperGez
12-08-2008, 11:31 PM
Just a quick update,
Crank is f*cked too. Luckily there was one in oz (just one) and it's mine. Shouldn't be long now.
albonator316
13-08-2008, 08:24 AM
could be back in time for TT on the 12th of sept?
Flash
13-08-2008, 04:26 PM
That sucks ass man!!
HyperGez
13-08-2008, 05:51 PM
I'll definately be at TT then. Just hope this thing doesn't go boom! ever again.
We've done a bit extra to make it stronger than standard, and have a top bloke doing the job (what he don't know aint worth knowing) but i'm still a little disappointed at the strength of these single cylinder 4t engines. I thought they were able to take a hammering.
Maybe it's just a case of shit happens, I dunno. Was even looking at racing next year but not sure now.
I've been searching all over the net for any major probs with the huskies but have not found much. Most rave about the 510's so I hope it was just a case of what the internals showed, and with more than regular servicing, it will last.
Fingers crossed!
Sounds like your got the mix bag of luck there Gerry.
Unlucky to have it go booom!!!
Lucky to find the parts here in OZ....
But at least you know what your've done and can say its a new motor.
As your've said with the sevice scheduel you'll keep, you should be OK...
Flash
15-08-2008, 11:10 AM
I think you had a bit of bad luck but 510 rods don't last as long as the 450 rods
HyperGez
15-08-2008, 12:23 PM
No doubt when I pick up the engine I'll find out how long I can use this rod before it needs replacing. Husqvarna told us, in motard trim, top to bottom rebuild every 4000k :shock: Surely thats for a race bike though.
My last dirt bike was a 90 kx 125, I had that for 2 years, rode mx every w'end and that only needed a set of rings once. Maybe I should have kept the TM smoker and tarded that.
Flash
15-08-2008, 12:41 PM
I was told that it was 4000km's for the 510 as well that's why I wouldn't get one. The 450 is the go as far as I'm concerned!
HyperGez
21-08-2008, 02:53 AM
Engine is done! with "Fire Breathing" mods. :twisted:
Hopefully picking it up on fri avo.
Working out how often I ride and the average kays I do, it would be 2 to 2.5 years before I cover 4000 kays, so I'm now more than happy with that.
Flash
21-08-2008, 05:19 PM
For me it's be under 3months!! hahahaha Hope you're happy with it!
HyperGez
26-08-2008, 07:31 AM
Run in was completed over the weekend and to say that i'm happy would be an understatement. Looks like i'll be at TT after all. :D
smrdog
26-08-2008, 09:30 AM
Nice one! Good to hear.
MarkeeMark
26-08-2008, 09:55 AM
Great to hear Gman. Looking forward to riding with you and Gravy again.
PS. Bring your warmers to TT I'll have some spare power from my new gennie I'll be using with my new tyre warmers! hehe
PPS. Slicks rock!
shane
26-08-2008, 01:11 PM
i hope you put a cable clutch on it those hydraulic ones suck big time
Flash
26-08-2008, 03:05 PM
i hope you put a cable clutch on it those hydraulic ones suck big time
I agree! Great when they're working but they just don't work to often!
HyperGez
26-08-2008, 03:47 PM
Wasn't aware people were having probs with the hyd clutch. I'll keep an eye on it, thanks Shane.
Anyone have a link to a topic about it?
s-ex-vee & nmilne, you were right about the mastercylinder. Was good to find out for myself though. Thanks for the info.
Wobbly
26-08-2008, 06:52 PM
:)
shane
26-08-2008, 11:37 PM
none of the top factory bikes in the uk /europe run the hydraulic clutches they all swap them to cables as they are just cause to many problems
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