braking brake help

[flea]

does anyone run a mib caliper,
i need advice on a rebuild, no matter how many time i pump the lever ive got no pressure,
if i bleed it still comes out the bleed nipple but thats it,

if it helps im running a braided line with the tags at the m/c end, i hope thats the right way

any help would be great :D

GIVEN UP ON MIB BOUGHT BRAKING SEE BELOW

[albonator316]

i don't know a lot about the subject but is any part of the brake line higher than the connection to the M/C? air can sit in there and be difficult to bleed. :shrug:

[MarkeeMark]

Remove the m/c from the bars and hold it up higher so that the line is in a vertical straight line, then gently tap the line so that any air bubbles trapped will rise to the m/c.
Now re attach the m/c to the bars and try bleeding it again.
If all else fails try a reverse bleed. Instructions here (http://www.scottysdirtbikespares.com/workshop-help/how-to-bleed-brakes.html)

cheers Mark

[flea]

will this improve the pressure, if when ive done all of that the bleeds but no pressure, but i will try again tonight, maybe i missed something

thanks fellas

[MarkeeMark]

Flea is your m/c ok? Are the seal doing their job?

[devo]

If there isn't fluid pissing out when you squeeze the lever there simply has to be air in there.

[flea]

yeah fluid pisses out just doesnt close the pots against the disk

thinking it might be a caliper seal,
where do i source these from if all else fails?

[devo]

The pots won't close when you're bleeding it. I meant when you've finished bleeding if you're still getting no pressure and there isn't fluid leaking somewhere, there must be air.

[flea]

thanks devo,and everyone else for the help

something so simply is pissing me off so much

fark the small things making me miss out on riding :loser:

such is mods to make things better hey

[MarkeeMark]

yeah fluid pisses out just doesnt close the pots against the disk

thinking it might be a caliper seal,
where do i source these from if all else fails?

To get seals you'd need to remove the piston and take out the seal.
Try ABS (Auto Brake Service) here in Vic and see if they can part match with the ones you have. That is, if when you remove them they are cuffed!

[Martin]

forget caliper seals if they're gone fluid will leak past them & be obvious.
Bleed as above, extra tip after you get some movement in pads, move pads out (push pistons back) with m/cylinder at highest point, this will push fluid (and bubbles) into reservoir.
Another easy way is to leave onight with cylinder high and lever just pushing piston in, opening the return hole, air will rise out.
take cap off to watch, when you see bubbles, laugh back
If you cannot get pressure after this the fault can only be the pump (master cylinder) Seal kits available but don't buy one till you've bled as above .

[Martin]

Or you are running a pump that's too small for caliper. If you're running orig m/cylinder with 4 pot that could be your issue. I'm not sure what a MIB is but someone else must have one , or ask where you got it.

[Wobbly]

May be a dumb question, but was it working OK before?

[flea]

May be a dumb question, but was it working OK before?

never used them before,
only ever had the original disk running off the original m/c

all ive done is...purchased braking 320 disc and S MIB caliper along with a new braided line ,
and bunged it all together hoping for it to work,

what m/c do you run neil??

[Muzzard]

16 x 16 at a minimum Flea as master cylinders go ;)
Your too small on the stock OEM offering mate.

[Wobbly]

Yeah, was going to say that your std 13mm m/c just doesn't move enough fluid. A 16mm traditional m/c may be a bit large, a radial 16x16 or 16x18 would be perfect. I have used a 16x18 radial with the MIB and it worked ok, though never really got the whole thing bled properly.

[SMC690]

And the beauty of the Brembo style radial is they have a top bleed nipple as well, makes them a pleasure to bleed if you consider bleeding a pleasure. ;)

[Martin]

I like Honda 14mm pumps (CBR600 etc) with one four pot-- but have no idea of piston size of MIB's. You need to do the maths.
Braking 16mm radial is perfect with Braking four pot.
have Brembo m/cylinder here somewhere (came with Yam motard kit) but is like a lump of wood with Braking caliper. Hardly moves at lever.

[flea]

PM SENT MARTIN :D

[flea]

alrighty, job done went and got a brand new braking, caliper+extentsion
and a new 16x16 braking m/c

but how the funk do you bleed the fucker's

no feel at the lever at all,

tried bleeding m/c then bleeding caliper, then the other way around
still no luck

any one else have these issues, and solved them

ps anyone want a BRAKING 13x13 m/c and or a mib caliper

[prid1279]

I always use a piece of hose over the nipple, you can easily see air coming out and when it stops, also stops air possibly getting sucked back in. When I did mine I bled caliper, still felt spongy. Bled m/c rock hard.

Sorry if I am telling you stuff you already know. It is hard to tell who knows what.

[Wobbly]

Extend the m/c and hold it up above the bars, moving the brake line around and adjusting its position until it is as straight as possible. Use a big syringe (the sort you can probably find in bunnings) and reverse bleed. That is, open the m/c cap and attached the syringe filled with brake fluid to the bleed nipple on the caliper and push the brake fluid back up the system. That will allow the air bubbles to follow their natural path (ie. upwards) and hopefully work a lot more of the air out.

You may need to do it a few times to get it properly bled. Once you're finished, zip tie the brake lever firmly on and leave it overnight. The extra pressure seems for some reason to make many of the smaller bubbles combine into bigger ones that move back up to the m/c more easily. Once done undo the zip tie with the m/c cover off and see if anything comes back into the reservoir and bleed the m/c using its bleed nipple.

[tambi]

nipple

[flea]

hey neil when i hang the m/c up do i leave the cap off or put it on and scew it up?

[Wobbly]

Easiest way is probably to take the calliper off altogether and leave the m/c on the bars, as long as you can re-route the brake line so that none of it protrudes above the level of the m/c entry point. You need the cap off when you start to bleed it, as you'll be pushing fluid back into the m/c reservoir and will need to soak up the excess from it as you do so.