DRZ Rebuild

[Wobbly]

Allrighty, time has been ticking and it's suddenly rebuild-o'clock!! The cams have been sitting on the telly for too long and I've finally decided that the hole in the middle of the cylinder is just too small :lol:

So, in readiness to drop off tomorrow morning, I did a few odd jobs tonight...

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_1_DRZ_Undressed.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_2_Cams.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_3_No_Cams.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_4_Head_Off.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_5_Head.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_6_Head_Upside_Down.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_7_Cylinder_Off.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_8_Piston_Closeup.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_9_Piston_Upside_Down.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_10_Bottom_End.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_11_Workbench.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_Rebuild_12_DRZ_Goodnight.jpg

Goodnight!!! :sleep:

[Flash]

I'm hearing the sound of my die grinder again :)

The piston looks OK in the pics is that the case? Are you going to do the rod/bigend as well?

[Wobbly]

Piston was pretty good, couple of very slight wear marks on the skirt but basically very minor. I'm going to stick with the stock rod as they apparently last forever and I'm too lazy to pull the motor out and split the cases :D

So, I think the rod will stay and I'll just replace the piston + gudgeon, get the bore job done and 'wack er back together with the new in + out hotcams. I'll check the cam chain length for wear as well and replace that if its near its outer tolerance. :up:

I'm strongly resisting the urge to skim the head because the exhaust hotcam doesn't have the auto decomp lobe and so is hard work for the starter to grind it over at more than 13:1. :x

Mmm, still tired ... but off to electrosil I go :P

[dicky]

Just one question...

Where are we going to put all the empties if your recycle bucket is holding the bike up?

dicky.

[Wobbly]

God damn it ... electrosil closed today :? Oh well, first thing tuesday I suppose then. Gives me an extra day to play with the kdx clunker I spose.

And dicky, the recycling bin is now a bike stand courtesy of the new 300 litre flip top jobbie that the council now expects me to fill up :shock: :lol:

[robfahl]

"And dicky, the recycling bin is now a bike stand courtesy of the new 300 litre flip top jobbie that the council now expects me to fill up :shock: :lol:"

HAHAHAHA good one!! :twisted: :up:

[rookie517]

hey nmile, looks like you are a capable mechanic!

guess i should rebuilt my XR sometimes this year

i have done top end overhaul for my 2smoker
but have not tried on thumper before

anything i should look out for? :?:

[Flash]

Cam timing - very important!!!

[Wobbly]

I think you might be over-using the phrase "capable" the rook :lol:

Nah, its all pretty simple. Just more things you need to twiddle on a 4 stroke. The engine studs seem to have a lot more torque on a 4s and you generally have to be fairly careful with the cam cap cover bolts, esp on the drz. If you're lucky then the XR will use old fashioned rockers and screw & locknut valve adjustments. Very old school, but bloody great to work on ... whereas I need to go shim hunting soon :x

[Flash]

Is that hole of yours bigger yet or what? :lol:

[Wobbly]

What do you take me for, a sailor?? :shock:

[Flash]

What's wrong with the cam??

[Flash]

I think Steve might want a go when it's finished, to see if it's money well spent :)

[Wobbly]

Friggen exhaust cam has no side to side play / float ... and binds up solid when you snug up the cam cap cover :evil:

[rookie517]

button up the engine and rev the piss out of it!

it should loosen up. :D

[dicky]

you're starting to sound like one of us rook.

dicky ;)

[dicky]

Neil,

I assume you didn't do any work on the head itself?
I'd try the old cam just to make sure it still spins ok, but I reckon you've probably already done that.
Will they take it back, or has it been sitting on top of the TV for too long?

dicky.
<maybe the magnetic field from the telly has caused it to warp ;) >

[Wobbly]

Well, the consensus on thumpertalk and from the HC reps seems that it will just radius itself :shock:

Sounds 'orrible to me, but i'll go by the words of the guys there ... i'm going to dump the oil shortly after break in anyway :?

Good point about the telly though dicky ... i'll stick them back on but upside down this time :idea:

[scozzie]

Just sing the neighbours theme song mantra while you're fitting it and she'll be right. :lol:

[rookie517]

you're starting to sound like one of us rook.

dicky ;)

:D

[Wobbly]

Well, I couldn't bring myself to just bolt it in and go ... it may well radius itself but all those metal shavings have to go somewhere ... they would be captive in the locator groove machined into the bearing/case but I can't think that this wouldn't at least promote more wear than necessary before they end up totally free from the cam.

So I dropped the head and cams off to a machinist this afternoon to have 0.1mm taken off the locator to give it back some end float and see how we go. This rebuild certainly isn't working out as easy as I had expected :roll:

[rookie517]

it will turn out fine mate.

;)

[dicky]

turn :lol:

geddit?
c'mon neil, you've gotta have a chuckle.
it'd be wrist slitting time otherwise.
rook is getting better each day.

dicky.

[Flash]

I'm glad to see you've taken it to a mahinist. You would have fucked the whole lot otherwise. When I used to build engines for a living I sore what happened to a mild gemini engine that had a similar problem. It destroyed itself very quick (minutes) and it had 6 littres of oil!!
Very good choice mate!

[Wobbly]

Ok, got the cam back tonight ... was looking to get it done somewhere and happened to have dropped my rear wheel off to Lightfoot Engineering in mont albert, who mainly work in building and aligning spoked wheels ... I noticed he had a mill, lathe, press, etc etc and talked about my dillema about the cam when I was picking my wheel up from being offset. He mentioned that he had previously been a specialist machinist working on competition historic car motors and said he could probably spin it up no drama. I left the cam and head with him mid-morning and picked it up this evening on the way back from work.

Sensational. Cam fits, has very slight but definate end float and now spins even more freely than the standard Hotcam cam in the inlet, despite having less side to side movement :D He ended up only having to take 3 thou off the side of it, and didn't charge me much at all for the job. Damn nice bloke too, and good for quite a bit of a chat 8)

So if you need anything done wheel wise then look him up ... and if you have specialist machining, you never know your luck ;)

I'm very glad I went with my gut and had the thing machined though, and decision which Sean from Hotcams also recommended after I recounted my measurements on the size of the locator :up:

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/Cam_Machined_Closeup.jpg

[rookie517]

turn

geddit?
c'mon neil, you've gotta have a chuckle.
it'd be wrist slitting time otherwise.
rook is getting better each day.

dicky.

:lol:

Neil, glad ya got it all sort out.
:)

[Wobbly]

Just getting some confirmation now on ring end gap before I attack it with a file and wet stone ;)

[Wobbly]

I think dicky is still impressed by my finely honed set of tools that I was using on the KDX ... big ass drill, large metal mallet and 9 inch long chissel :lol:

[dicky]

that, and all the swarf on the floor to prove you have been using them.

dicky.
<only one s in chisel>

[Wobbly]

It even looks like a bike again...

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/Back_together_right.jpg

Start her up tomorrow morning, then off quicksmart on a break-in ride...

[Muzzard]

Looks nice Neil the brass in the airbox is bling man! 8)

[Flash]

Well!!! :up: :down:

[Wobbly]

:up: :D

According to the cam specs they called for starting up and not letting the revs drop below 3k. So start it up I did (after some dry starting to build up a bit of oil pressure), let it run for 30 secs at 3 grand then hop on and away we go. Bike seemed good at first, but I wasn't doing anything interesting as I didn't want to put the cams under too much duress but equally didn't want to go too easy on the new bore. Half hour ride around the neighbourhood, then home and double check oil etc.

Antti turned up soon after I got back so I had a few more checks and then away we went, up over christmas hills and through to healsville by way of chum creek. I figured the cams were worn in reasonably by now so started giving it some more welly with a lot more throttle opening and noticed that there was a little flat spot around 4k but a lot more up on top. The bottom end seemed a bit softer as well.

Cut a long story short, and as the bore bedded in it seemed to free up a little to the point where its restored the bottom end and then some. The middle still seems to have a little soft spot, but I think this is just in relation to the greater bottom end and top end. It's opened up the top end quite a bit now and it'll stay with antti's XR650R under the hammer no dramas (which I also had a ride of, and it has a good power getting up to 120k's quite efficiently and with mucho grunto).

Power wheelies are now a piece of piss, and with a bit of timed bar tugging you can get it up in 3rd without the clutch, albeit crappily due to my awful technique :D It also has this awesome airbox induction howl when it starts getting on cam :up: It's only got about 250k's on the bore now, but should be more or less broken in.

So, yep, well worth the investment of money and time :up: :up:

[Flash]

so your happy that's good to here!!

[rookie517]

cool.

please let me ride it

:lol:

[Wobbly]

When you're down here for your holiday you're more than welcome to rook :up:

[Sibbo]

does that offer extend to...um.....others??? :twisted:

[Wobbly]

Maybe ... all depends on what sort of gifts are received :lol: ;)

[rookie517]

that is very cool Neil :D

[Wobbly]

Of course now that the piston has run in and is sealing effectively I'm finding that the starter doesn't have the oomph to get over the compression now that the auto decomp on the exhaust valve is gone ... just checking whether I can get the kicker manual decomp and bolt it straight on ... which is probably better than trying to get more boogie out of the starter I'm assuming :-k

But when I wound the throttle to the stop in 2nd coming out of the corner that turns left onto elgar rd from riversdale rd it reminded me that it was worth the aggrevation :D

[rookie517]

did ya check the voltage/amp on the battery?

many folks in TT have replace to hotcam (without the auto decom mechanism) and start without much problem, especially those with high comp piston.

just a thought...

[Wobbly]

Been too lazy to check voltage yet :D

But the battery is only about a year old, so should be good ... but will do ... I also ordered the auto decomp bits today, and the grand total only comes to about 100 bucks :up:

[Wobbly]

Still going ... got the manual decomp the other day and it can all be fitted without even pulling the rocker cover off which is nice 8)

Got some new steering head bearings yesterday ... punched the races on with a (strangely enough) punch ... fitted the lower bearing with the punch too ... took forever, then noticed that I hadn't put the dust seal on it #-o

But it came off again, and then today I pulled the stem out the freezer, the bearing out the oven, and then drove it on to the shaft with the metal neck of the vacuum cleaner! :lol:

I'm guessing that you realise that I'm single by now ;) :D

[Muzzard]

... And loving every minute of it! :twisted:

[Wobbly]

Ok, here are some 'after' shots in the sunlight...

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_SM_Left_Rear.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_SM_Left_Front.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/DRZ_SM_Right.jpg

More in the DRZ Rebuild Gallery (http://www.vsmr.net/modules.php?set_albumName=drzrebuild&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)

[Sibbo]

tuff looking bike. 8)

[rookie517]

very neat looking !

[scozzie]

Nice Neil, very nice.

How much do you reckon you've spent on it to get it to this stage?

[Sibbo]

Are you hinting at the slight possibility that the additional expense of hotting up a DRZ to WR standard is not as good as buying a WR in the first place? :oops:
Not having a go at you Neil, as it has been great reading about the hot up. Cant wait to see the big bore, hot pipe, wild ported KDX!! :D

[Wobbly]

Yeah, but my DRZ won't fly to pieces and eat 2nd and 4th gear when used on the road :up: (there is a reason why yamaha sell their bikes with a disclaimer saying 'not for highway use' on a bright yellow sticker ;) ) Nor will it require as frequent valve shimming or have such a tiny sump ;) ;) Not bashing WR's here though, they're great bikes but just not what I'd pick when I commute every day and put on about 1000k's a month :up:

Don't talk about the KDX ... my wallet is still in a state of shock ... !

I've spent a fair bit on it, but as much just doing the same stuff as you'd do on any bike over time to make it 'yours' ... but the big things have been the full pipe, big bore and cams, which is about $2k on top of the asking price of the bike. That's apart from the motard wheelset that sets you back $2.5k or thereabouts.

But there's lots of small incidental bits and pieces that you buy over time, like diff pegs, fork and shock springs, jets, plastics, etc etc that I'm sure add up to a shit tin! :shock:

[jakestein]

I am betting it has a better bottom end then my wr should be a good comparo.

So how is the leccy start going ;) mines still sweet :D

[Muzzard]

I'll second that motion regards the eating of cash to keep the WRF on the road.
I am not grizzlin' about the expense, just that for that 'off the floor' performance there is an ongoing tag that I wont even contemplate when like Neil I use mine daily and clock around 1700km a month...
Add the $2500 to the engine now and I'm riding about $30,000 worth of fun over 2 years...
For Christ sake dont show my missus this...

[Wobbly]

:lol:

Now THAT has to be worth something! :rofl:

[Wobbly]

And you're welcome to a ride jake :up:

[Sibbo]

$30,000 worth of fun over 2 years...
:shock: Why did you not just buy a stock wr2(4)50 then when it wore out buy another? Am I missing the point?

[Muzzard]

Does my bike look stock Sibbo? :roll:
I didnt think so, and when I wear things out, I usually take the option of repairing it if it has been hassle free up til that point.
As a financial guru surely you must see that to purchase 2 bikes over 2 years when I only just wore out 1, would cost more given the level of modification undertaken on the 1 bike I have now?
Originally the bike cost me $16,100 to build for your interest...

[Sibbo]

16k? WOW. Is it made of carbon Fiber? Has the $ been spent for hp or just to have a unique bike?

[Muzzard]

A bit of both as originally the bike was stock to look at with the exception of wheels with brakes, bars and clamps...

[purdyboy]

Great result Neil. Very inspiring (and i'm envious). Looks like DRZ400 makes a great (practical) streetmotard.
Are you going to tweak the suspension at all?

[Wobbly]

Yep, that'll be next on the list ... the bike is really a dedicated motard now so I'm thinking about revalving the forks and shock. I'm half thinking about having a crack myself, but I'm probably better off to leave it up to a professional ;)

[scozzie]

I've already got a crack.
I got it from my Mum.
People see it when I bend down.
My daughter thinks it's fun.

:D :D :D :D

[Muzzard]

Is it something with daughters?
Mine thinks its funny too... :roll:

[scozzie]

:D :D :D

[purdyboy]

Perhaps you can source a pair of USD forks first then have them revalved etc, the USDs should be less flexy. That might end up being expensive, as you'll need the triple clamps as well, but you never know what you can source. I've read that the SM version of the DRZ400 has USD forks.

Good luck with it, I'm watching the build-up with great interest mate.

[Wobbly]

Yes, true, late model RM250 forks fit ... you can use the standard RM yokes, although that does increase the offset some ... so would need a set of bling-bling black annodized TAG triples of course :D

[purdyboy]

Do it! :shock:

Seriously though...
I 'spose you gotta decide if its really necessary. Do you notice the flex when compared to your other streetbikes? Is it a real issue?

Edit: If you want everything black, consider powdercoating. It's meant to be cheaper if you get together with a few others and have a heap of parts done at the same time. I've seen a new CBR600RR with all the levers/rearsets and sundries coated black and it does look really neat, if you're into that sort of thing.

[Wobbly]

Not really ... I can't tell much flex from the conventional forks, they're pretty beefy 49mm units and apparently fork braces don't do anything for them as they're stiff enough already.

Don't look quite so BLING though :D

[Flash]

Trever Hay "Mr Race Tech" Said the conventional forks on the late 90's RM's are(same as DRZ) come of the best forks you get. Problem is where all told upside down forks are better.
Don't get me wrong I'm not the biggest fan of AG bikes (whoops there I go again)trail bikes but when someone like Terry says stuff like that I listen!!

[rookie517]

ya, those conventional fork are actually showa twin chamber which is one of the best fork around, with it 49mm,i believe it is good enough.

from 96 onward though..

[Wobbly]

Ok, got some cheapy ballards bar raisers as well - about $35. Hopefully should help shed some of that falling-backwards sensations when going over, umm, urban obstacles :P

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/bar_raisers1.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/bar_raisers2.jpg

[Flash]

Top idea for the tight ass like myself!
I was thinking of getting a set of high bend renthal fat bars like my YZ! I might get a set of those instead, how much?

[Wobbly]

$35 for standard 7/8" raisers from scotty's :up:

[purdyboy]

This is a great build-up to follow mate. Everytime I get on this site there is something else to learn about building a good tard without having the advantage of "money is no object".
Good to hear about those forks, that's the sort of info needed to convince people toward 'the way of the DRZ'.
Looking at the photo, the upper instrument is the speedo and the lower is the tacho?
What's the dry mass quoted for your model DRZ400?


Keep up the good work mate.

[Wobbly]

Thanks PB :up: I'm a big fan of make it yourself instead of spending a squillion bucks ;) Like my front master cylinder remote reservoir (from my old stock pile of kr-1 parts) and mount made out of a bit of scrap ally

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_mc1.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_mc2.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_mc3.jpg

Yeah, I know, I didn't tart it up much ... I can hear muzz tut-tutting from here! :lol: No worries though, a coat of black paint later and you'll never know the difference :up: ;)

Dry weight for the drz is around 120kg (122?), for what quoted weights are worth. The upper thing in the earlier photos is a trailtech speedo/odo thing, and the whatsit under the bar yep is a combo tacho and engine hour meter, gratefully sourced from muzz :up: But now sans the yamaha logo! :D

[Flash]

Yep by those photo's I can just picture a young Neil making a bong from an old hose and orange juice bottle :lol:

[Wobbly]

:-$

[jakestein]

What state is your old DRZ tank in? ;)

[Wobbly]

Did I mention I have no eyebrows left? :shock: :lol2:

[Wobbly]

Ok, and just to stop muzz from twitching from the vice marks and other scratches on the mount I decided to clean it up and give it a whizz of best matt black :lol2:

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_mc4.jpg

[Muzzard]

Phew, Thank Christ for that Neil... :lol:

[Flash]

All wrong, Muzz would polich that bastard till he could see has face. :shock:

[Wobbly]

I was actually heading that way, about to start on the 800 wet n dry when I thought that it would just be way to shiny ... I like my bikes to be a bit matted ... and dirty :D

[Muzzard]

You like your bikes like a hippies hair? :shock:

[Wobbly]

I can see I'd get on with your mate with the 300exc well :lol:

[Muzzard]

Its a sort of contradiction in terms but he would be the cleanest friggin' hippy I know...
He cant afford to have dirty hair, he has so many girls opting to care for it... :roll:

[jakestein]

He cant afford to have dirty hair, he has so many girls opting to care for it... :roll:

That I have witnessed :lol:

[Wobbly]

So it wouldn't be a weekend without some sort of wrenching on the DRZ :D

Starting off the battery has been a bitch lately, what with losing the auto decomp, and I just can't wangle the manual decomp with the starter before it dies anyway :? So seeing as half it was done I picked up a kickstart kit and stuck it in today. Of couse it comes with the manual decomp that I put on separately a few weeks ago :roll:

Side cover, clutch and bits off...

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_kick1.jpg

Dis is wots going in there...

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_kick2.jpg

Like so...

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_kick3.jpg

And the final product (muzz - note water from washing - how did that get there? :shock: )

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild/drz_kick4.jpg

[Muzzard]

You never 'washed' it Neil, Ya just wiped the header and squirted it with the hose... :roll:
Has that frame got harlequin paint finish too now? Looks like it goes grey to brown in the light... :poke:

[Wobbly]

Ok, well maybe 'wash' was a bit of an overstatement :lol:

And I'll have you know that brown isn't surface rust ... it's "character marks" :D

[Muzzard]

Looks a heap better than mine at the mo mate... :lol:
One day I will be able to afford to get the parts and make a start on it. :(

[Cal]

How long did that take Neil? All up including the decomp, how long do ya reckon?

[Wobbly]

Not long, couple of hours I reckon ... very simple job :up:

[Wobbly]

Well, finally began pulling apart the motor now it's in its nice new stand :) First thing of note is that the valve clearances haven't changed at all virtually in the 300 hours its been running since they were last shimmed - right in the middle of their clearance range on both inlet and exhaust :up:

[Muzzard]

Have you been regular with the services and air cleaner element?
Do you think its just DRZ type reliability?

[Wobbly]

I would claim no personal responsibility for any reliability encountered :lol: To be honest I don't ride on the dirt very much as you well know, so air cleaner servicing hasn't been such an issue for me. But it got cleaned at least twice in that 300 hours ! :lol2:

As Ash can attest to from having to help me lift it on to the bench, these motors appear to be made from bedrock :snigger:

[Muzzard]

I'll mark it down to the reliability thing then right... :lol:

[Wobbly]

Wow, this is a 300 hour piston :!:

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild2/drz_300hour_piston1.sized.jpg

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild2/drz_300hour_piston2.sized.jpg

[77]

I just want to say thanks for documenting the rebuild for us all. Do you think that the piston should have looked worse? The kick start kit that you installed it was a simple 2 hour job????? Or are you exagerating? Anything in your rebuild that you would have done differently?

[Wobbly]

The piston has almost no marks on its skirt whatsoever, which is a good thing, many pistons show much more wear with much less time. Interestingly these are considered fairly long skirt pistons - look at a CRF for an example of the exact opposite.

The kickstart kit was dead easy, as long as you're used to pulling motors apart. If it's your first time pulling the motor then probably add another hour to hour and a half. But its basically right hand case off, clutch off, undo a couple of retainers, whack in the kickstarter, stick the oil seal in the case, bolt up the clutch and stick the case back on. Then frig around with the decompressor cable and put the mechanism in the head (which you don't even need to remove the cam box for, but you might want to just to see what's going on.

[Wobbly]

So anyone got any good tips on how to get the @(*^#$% stoopid phillips head screws out of the oil pump :? They seem to be stuck fast and my efforts thus far with the impact hammer and heat gun just seem to be resulting in deforming and starting to round out the screws :evil:

[Flash]

If you have a full steel shaft screw driver put it in the screww and give it a good hit with a hammer and that will help loosen the grip on the thread.

[Wobbly]

Ok, ash's technique worked a treat on getting the POS screws out :)

So now just trying to work out how to get the magneto off without buying the $200 screwsuzki special tool :shock: So of course rather than having your standard magneto with the concave side facing inwards and a threaded hole in which to bolt in a standard crank puller, the drz has a different arrangement.

As you can see below it has the end of the crank threaded and a nut securing it. It also had a locknut after this which I got off with my home made swan neck 27mm ring end spanner ;)

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild2/DRZ_Engine_Magneto.jpg

The special tool as far as I can see must screw on to the exposed thread near the base of the crankshaft and this run counter to the thread on the main 27mm locking nut to enable this to be removed, but then how to get the attachment off? I'm presuming its not pressed on as well..... :-k

[Wobbly]

Now just waiting to decide whether to buy the ripoff suzuki special tool or find a way of getting a motion pro tool over here for cheap...

Anyway, stuffing around in the shed I started wondering whether the drz tard wheels would fit on the kdx for a bit of track tomfoolery ... works out that the rear bolts up almost exactly - its a bit of a tight (interference) fit but once mounted up the chain alignment is perfect as is the rear disc alignment! :shock: The front will take a bit more doing as there is a 5mm difference in axel size, but I have a cunning plan 8)

http://vsmr.net/albums/kawasaki/kdx_tard1.sized.jpg

[shane]

so you will be out next weekend for some fun then neil

[Wobbly]

I'm hoping to get out soon, this weekend depends on whether this bulge in the side of me disapears and whether I can get the front wheel sorted out in time or not. Looks like i'm going to nead some sort of bearing carrier to use the standard front axel and I just found out that the talon hub has a stepped part of the collar on the rhs... :?

[Sibbo]

So you will definatly be there for the first ride day in October?

WOOOO, I love the kdx tard, it looks sooooo cool. When it is rigged up, can I have a ride? I will let you ride the berg....maybe....

[Wobbly]

Hopefully should be good to go for then, will see how my makeshift front wheel bearing outriggers go :) The poor little kdx will probably be very underwhelming power wise, as it struggles with the skin on a rice pud, but there might be some porting in its future if it ends up being fun on the track ;)

[motard_mike]

hi neil,
i have a drz motard and am thinking about going big bore and custom cams. i have a contact who can do the cam regrind for 145 but im looking into the big bore. i can get a weisco piston and a new sleve for 600 localy or import a bolt on kit, which way did you go? the athena kit looks good but pricey??

[Wobbly]

I got mine done by electrosil - under a grand for the whole job, boring, replating, piston kit, rings, gaskets :up:

I would AVOID anything with a cast iron liner - they pop head gaskets on drz's like nothing else due to the relatively little material left after the 4mm overbore which expands at a much different rate to the iron....!

[Wobbly]

More pics up in the gallery (http://www.vsmr.net/modules.php?set_albumName=drzrebuild2&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php) ... i've ripped a large portion of the engagement dogs off 4th gear on the 4th->3rd downchange :shock:

http://vsmr.net/albums/drzrebuild2/DSC01830.jpg

[Muzzard]

Ride with your toe sitting on the lever in the traffic?
Cant see much other reason for it. :?
It is a pretty bullet proof gearbox usually...

[Wobbly]

No, in fact quite the opposite, I have a habit of riding with the balls of my feet on the pegs ... maybe just sheer ham fistedness :)

[Flash]

I do the same thing there Neil, it's from cycling (for me) got no idea for you though :snigger:

[Wobbly]

To stop dragging my feet on the ground riding on road bikes for me ;)

[APA]

Some of the gears sure look like they got hot and discolored. Was there any galling on the shafts where the gears spin?

[Wobbly]

The camera actually gives things a slight green/blue tinge, so its not quite as bad as it looks ... not sure about the shafts yet, have yet to pull the gears off the splines...

[eddie_pt]

Wobbly, Can you share the full gallery for the rebuild again? and how did you remove the magneto and splitted the covers?

[Grizzly]

Wobblys photos of the rebuild are here:

http://www.supermotoaus.com/gallery.php?g2_itemId=19568

[Wobbly]

Rebuild is a bit of a stretch ... the breaking up and then selling in reality, at least the second time around :)

http://www.supermotoaus.com/gallery.php?g2_itemId=19721

The magneto came off with a magneto puller, my home made engine frame (high tech welded angle brackets bolted to my metal bench) and a shitload of leverage, as ash can atest to :) I split the cases using a home made case splitter, made up of a cheap harmonic balancer puller from repco with some angle bracket extensions and home made extended length welded bolts :D

[Wobbly]

Here's my home made case splitter...

http://www.supermotoaus.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=19769&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.supermotoaus.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=19767&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.supermotoaus.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=19765&g2_serialNumber=2

[daffy67]

What did you end up doing with the bike?

[Wobbly]

Parted it out and sold off most of the bits... was worth more that way than putting it all back together and selling it as a runner :)