KTM 625 SMC set up.

[Quix]

So my money's down for one of these motards.

I had a chat to the distributer and he told me to tooth 1 down on the front sprocket. So the dealer is doing this as part of the pre-delivery.

Now the is in NSW and as such restricted to 21kw or something. About half the normal 640 LC4.

They said they'd de-restrict it also before I picked it up. What do they have to do exactly? I take it it may need the Kehein carby taken off to do part of the work. If so is it worth putting a larger main jet in? The pipes will be stock mind you.

Do these things have reduced aperture washers in the exhaust or inlets?

Anyway I won't guess so can you please advise what needs to be done to make it howl... minus the mufflers at this stage.

I'm a pretty picky guy so if things need cutting, chopping, and could be irreversibly buggered up I'd rather do it myself. Else :cry:

[Daws]

SMC has a restrictor in the carb to stop the slide opening fully, not sure if any jetting is changed as part of the derestriction.

[Muzzard]

As Paul said the Carb side plate has to be removed (very simple)
and the shorter stop screw replacing the long screw, gives you a fuller lift of the slide.
Full throttle instead of 2/3 or thereabouts.
Pipes wise,
I am fucking anal about my bikes mate.
Buy a good pair of slip on mufflers and put yours in the boxes the bling ones come outta.
Get adventurous with the holesaw and stainless mesh so you can grate cheese with your airbox cover.
Take it to a dyno tuners and you wont look back.
Justin will have all the good oil for you as soon as he logs back in.
His is very nicely built, and I think you would appreciate the advice.
Kon (Yobgow) is also extremely knowledgable on your baby and will be able to give you the insight you need too.

[SMC690]

Good work Quix. :)

As the others mention.
Carb top off, 5cm odd throttlestop out and new shorty one put back in.
Let's you open the carb more than half.
Jetting changed to 45 idle from 42, air screw out 2 turns, OBEKR replace's stock OBDVT needle on 4th from top and 165 main jet remains the same.
All should be supplied with the bike.

I still have the stock front sprocket on which I believe is a 17.
I have been contemplating a 16.
I have it, I just haven't fit it yet.

Drill a few large holes in the top of the airbox or get the KTM HardE open lid to open up the induction side.

The exhausts can be opened up a bit with a 1 1/4" holesaw and some CRC. Finish of with a dremel.
There is a good thread on supermoto junkie about how to do it.
It makes the bike a fair bit noisier so consider that too if you are a stealth rider.

Cheers,
Juz.

[Quix]

As the others mention.
Carb top off, 5cm odd throttlestop out and new shorty one put back in.
Let's you open the carb more than half.
Jetting changed to 45 idle from 42, air screw out 2 turns, OBEKR replace's stock OBDVT needle on 4th from top and 165 main jet remains the same.
All should be supplied with the bike.



Awesome info!

Yeah looking forward to picking it up Friday, fingers crossed it arrives from WA.

So the "shorty" throttlestop is supplied? The article I was reading used a hacksaw to cut the long one! :shock:

As a noob, is OBEKR a parts code or acronym?

Also KTM WA said to drop down to a 16 front sprocket as it makes the bike much "nicer" to ride. They said stock they are geared to high for passing rego laws.

Also, has anyone powder coated their wheels?

[SMC690]

The short one is supplied with the bike.
It sit's flush with the top of the slide.

OBEKR relates to the needle for the carb. It's the Keihin part number for the needle. The different letters translate to the different tapers over the length of the needle.

I best get that sprocket on before next GPTC. :)
I must admit the stock 17 gave the bike a pretty good top speed.

I have too many half used tubs of alloy polish in my garage to contemplating powder coating my wheels. I like the silver for a change as I had black rims on my last tard.

The stock tyres will most probably be Pirelli Scorpion Sync.

[Sibbo]

I have too many half used tubs of alloy polish in my garage to contemplating powder coating my wheels.
Thats the worst thing about the berg, bloody polished alloy rims, they look so good when all cleaned up, but its such hard work.....Shane, can you ship me over a slave...sorry a servant that I can pay Au$1 a month!!!

[Muzzard]

Theres a lot of flex in spoked wheels and I would not suggest you powder coat them.
It will crack off around the spoke nipples and look shit in no time.
Thats why they are anodised.
Wouldn't have been the famed ADB mag that said to cut the throttle stop screw was it? :roll:
They are so expensive too from the bolt bloke.
I think something like 3 x 0.75 x whatever length, but included in most spares kits anyway as anything fitted like this to an ADR bike has been included for the customers choice afterwards.
Yamaha does the same with an attachment to the Maunual explaining how to do the swap, and a template for the removal of unwanted plastic around the airbox sides too.
Same goes for the sprocket choice.

[speaksgeek]

Mine's not an SMC, but I've done the 16T front sprocket instead of 17T. If you like wheelehs I suggest you do it.
When I rode a stock SMC, it was certainly more willing to lift the front than mine, with a 16T it would be mad!

[Flash]

.....Shane, can you ship me over a slave...sorry a servant that I can pay Au$1 a month!!!

X2 :lol:

[SM93]

Sibbo wrote:
.....Shane, can you ship me over a slave...sorry a servant that I can pay Au$1 a month!!!


X2




i can organise a refrigerated container so we can chuck a dozen or so in it. we can get shane to throw in some bananas, magazines and a potty.

so place your orders guys

[Quix]

:cry:

Well, I took a KTM supplied 625 SMC for a ride todayand I'm really not happy with the bike. Maybe all tards are like this?

All I could hear was induction noise. I couldn't tell where in rev range I was and whether I was in the correct gear.

The bike seemed very twitchy even at 110kph. Maybe this is the lightness of the bike, but it just seemed like it didn't have enough rake on the steering head.

Yes it went quick if accelerating was what you wanted to do, but at most other times it was a chore to ride.

Am I misjudging things?

[kroosn]

well maybe if your new to motards then they feel a little awkward. but its a style i came from dirtbikes and had ridden quite a few road bikes so it just came naturally. motards arent for every just the people who want to go fast :up: :up:

[megahead]

twitchyness can also be caused by suspenion set up
ie rear to hard or forks drop thru the tripples to far
tyre pressure is another good one
i once got my 525 serviced by a bike shop (first service) with the tard set up on it
rode home and wounderd why the arse lit up every where and the front was nervous as hell
got home checked tyres ...40+ psi fuck me nearly died 'cause of a dipshit
cant use a press gauge

[Muzzard]

The induction noise is gonna be there no matter what you ride but the singles seem to sound heavier than the multi's.
Like Kyle said the setup will sort out the bike.
We can help you diagnose it from here and you see how it changes the bikes characteristics if you like.
There are a few in here now and there will be someone with a setup that will give you a start point anyway.
Dont distress too much.
All will be sorted out. ;)

[devo]

I haven't had my 525 suspension fiddled with at all. Head shake at 80+ with dirt wheels and stable as hell at 140+ with the 17's. Juice informs me his DRZ-SM gets headshake at 110 or so and, like the LC4, that's a factory motard.

Must be just plain luck when your weight, tyre pressure and bike all come together nicely with zero fiddling.